The clock and the odometer readings were set back to zero. I went back to the car and re-started the car after 5 mintues. I drove it home for about 30 minutes and turned off the ignition. No problem at all after I started the car. The battery got installed and registered. The battery has a green light on when I got it from the dealership. I replaced a brand new battery for my car this afternoon. Screenshot that describes battery registration: Registered the new battery, problem solved immediately. I tested the moonroof with the new battery BEFORE registering, and the problem remained, which I suspected was because the computer didn't know it could now pull more current from the battery. The indy shop didn't have access to the computer they normally used to register batteries that day, so I told them to give me the car with just the battery and I'd DIY it. I suspected the battery wasn't providing enough power, so we got a new one. Her Mini Cooper S's moonroof would only close completely while the engine was running when only the ignition was on, it would come forward but wouldn't pull itself all the way down to make the seal, and it moved much more slowly overall. I had first-hand experience with what happens when you don't register a battery recently with my wife's car. Registering basically allows the computer to pull the proper amount of current from the battery and manage it properly, which it might not do if it thinks it's still dealing with an old battery. There are DIY threads on this forum showing how to do this.Īs for what exactly registering a battery does, the link I added at the bottom of the post shows a description of the process. Dealers will definitely overcharge on labor for registration, because if you have a coding cable and the right software the process takes all of 60 seconds. "Registering" is the process of informing the computer that a new battery has been installed, and while failing to do that won't prevent the new battery from working, it IS good to do and CAN make a difference in how the car manages the new battery and how long the new battery lasts. Here's an edited version of what I just posted on M3Post in a similar thread: Matching battery spec only alleviates the need for CODING, not registering, which you should always do upon battery replacement. Well, once I got home I left car in garage for an hour or so and after that it was all fine. I stopped the car, turned it off and back on again and realised the clock was reset again and Low-batt indicator came on. 30 minutes later the same indicator was still present. So I thought a nice long drive will sort that out. However once I installed the battery the "Low-batt" indicator remained. Therefore I purchased a battery suitable for my car and with the exact matching CCA (Cold Crank Amperes) I also made sure that my car is listed in the manufacturers book. I must say, i was worried due to some people claiming that "special coding" must be done to register the battery with vehicle. BMW Battery replacement - I have replaced mine due to same issue with aftermarket.
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